Help with bodice pattern

[Flansy]

Ok ladies...there must be some of you that work at faire and sew your own bodices...any of you use any of the big name pattern companies patterns? (ie simplicity, butterick, mccalls etc) If so which one and if you do any alterations on it...what are they? Any help would be much loved. Thanks!

[Isabella]

The pattern I'm using is Alter Years to test run on a bodice. I've always bought them, and I want to find a way to be more cost effective and make them. I make everything else, heck, I should make this!

The one things I spy with my little eye, is that the Simplicty, etc. patterns all have darts or princess seams in the patterns. All bodices of this time usually don't have these, but it helps keep the "simplicity" in the pattern.

The option I saw was to make a mock of muslin and sew it with the darts, then retrace it, solid, and cut pattern so it has no darts, to give it a more period look.

I finally after a few years of gumbling, bought the Alter Years patterns. I've got every single commerical pattern out there. Gawud Bless Joann's .99 cent sales!

The reason we went to using the Alter Years, is that it gives a goodly amount of support. Rather than the Pricess Seams that round out the bust, you get a flat tummy with a shelf, the look of the Elizabethans. Some of the patterns with Simplicity are getting close, and the last one I got was almost there, but I noticed it alas had pricess seams in the front, but none in the back.

Alter Years patterns run small. I'll warn you now. So go to www.alteryears.com and look at the size chart first. (If you get the pattern) and see how far you'll have to make it up, from your actual size, or if you can use it without marking it up.

Either way, take your time, enjoy doing it. It CAN be frustrating, even for those who are avid seamstress and seammisters. If you get frustrated, put it down, walk away, and come back. The dang thing will be there, when you get back!

I know that Allie Sutherland did a few of the Simplicity pattern bodices, maybe she'll post here with some coaxing, so that you can pick her brain too. But I'm also sure there's enough of us too that have done them.

Just remember, 1.00 fabric is your friend. Use it, abuse it and throw it away when you are done. It helps you figure out where you need to fix, and figgit, without messing up your regular fabric. I got 1.00 blue jean fabric at walmart. Three yards, so there is a Gawud, and he smiled on me, when I was making mock ups.

Just remember sturdy is good for mock ups also, so you can get a good idea of how the bodice will look, without the wrinkles.

Pinay :)

[hhrvt]

i tried a few of the commercial patterns and was always disappointed with their inability to support the girls for more than 5 min---i fianlly broke down and bought a pendragon bodice (which i adore) and when my little sis needed a bodice, i just used my pendragon for the pattern, worked MUCH better without all the princess seams and darts the commercial patterns out there---good luck

['Nise]

I have personally used the simplicity's 8715 basic ren woman's pattern. It was my very first bodice when I first started making ren costumes. It has the bonus of being easy, and the worst part of the design (IMHO) the rounded shoulder strap ends that lace together over the shoulder, can easily be altered and made so that the bodice straps are all one peice. I boned my with feather boning (I know bad choice but it was my first ever bodice). half the boning came out so I usually end up wearing a sports bra under it if I drag it out, however when the shoulders are altered it looks much! more professional, and it still draws compliments.
Simplicities pattern 9966 is more like some of the commercial bodices sold at the faires around here. It has seams only for the back and the rest is connected by lacing. Authentic, not that I've heard but if you aren't worried about that the only difference I could see between that and the commercial patterns is it doesn't lace up the back.
IF you are looking for an authentic costume I would sugest drafting your own pattern. Honestly it is not as difficult as it seems, just mock it up with cheap fabric first. There are some good drafting instructions online at http://www.sempstress.org
Good luck
Love
'Nise

[Isabella]

The Alter Years pattern has none of the princess seams as the Simplicity, wasn't sure if I made that clear enough :)

Personally, I'd give it a shot, it's the best period pattern out there. And good boning. Remember you can set boning in the front, sides, and at an angle from waist to corner of your bodice to give more support, and a smoother line. I had a bodice made that did this, and it was comfy and suportive to my bodice buddies, and they didn't fall or unfluff all day.

1/2 inch white steel boning. Heck my best bodice only had 1/4 inch, and I'm not a light thing. And it held me up all day.

I love the Pendragons, just a touch too expensive for my blood, plus they would have to speical make a bodice for me, I'm not an off their rack gal, according to their sizes. :) So till I can walk in and walk out with one, I'll stick to working on the patterns at home. :)

Pinay

[Isabella]

You could also try this too :)

http://www.costume.dm.net/kirtlepat/

You have to generate a corset pattern first, then create the bodice pattern after. I've already drawn my corset, now I need to redraw and try the bodice.

Pinay

[Nevada]

I also have a Pendragon bodice but it is a corset bodice..being an all around fluffy wench they had to custom make...expensive (bless my husband for buying it) but wonderful...and hoping to attempt bodices further down the road...will keep an eye on everyone else input

[Isabella]

We're going to attempt "busked" bodices later this year after the seaons ends here. If we get a good pattern I'll definately post it up somewhere. :)

I saw a gal on ebay that does something similar, but her sizes are all too small for me, but she does beautiful emblishments. Her bodices have like 20 bones in them. Their the corset style also. I just wish she made them larger. :cry:

Ah! The great cry of big beautiful women! ;)

[Ysobelle]

We're going to attempt "busked" bodices later this year after the seaons ends here. If we get a good pattern I'll definately post it up somewhere. :)

I saw a gal on ebay that does something similar, but her sizes are all too small for me, but she does beautiful emblishments. Her bodices have like 20 bones in them. Their the corset style also. I just wish she made them larger. :cry:

Ah! The great cry of big beautiful women! ;)

So...you do know that's what I do, right?

[Isabella]

Busked bodices?

I'm not sure if I'm being dumb or not understanding...

[Isabella]

Duh on me! Corset bodices! Yes, I knew that's what you did, Hon! Gah, I'm dence! *smacks forhead on keyboard*

[Ysobelle]

Duh on me! Corset bodices! Yes, I knew that's what you did, Hon! Gah, I'm dence! *smacks forhead on keyboard*


Ow! That's gotta hurt! Stop that!

But yeah, all my corset bodices have 15" busks in the front. Oh, the sartorial epiphany when I first discovered the busk! No more wrenching my arms out of the sockets to lace a side front seam! Wooty woot! They're not extraordinarily period (a busk is, but not in the form we're talking about), but they're very practical, as grommets can tear but busks-- once you get the hang of them-- are quick to use and never wear out.

I'm no help with the commercial pattern thing-- I draft all mine, now, and I swear, it's getting more and more bloody complicated every time I do it. But it's great when the plan comes together, right?

[Isabella]

Definately! :) *laughs* And I stopped smacking my head when I noticed that I had little square impressions on my forhead. Yikes! :wink:

Ya know, you should think about trying to do a commerical pattern! Heck, with your skill I know a lot of woman that would love it!

Pinay

[Flansy]

thanks for the advice everyone...I actually have the Mantua Maker, quilted pair of bodies pattern... but the 12 pages of instructions and the need to cover the edges in bias tape so intimdated me that I wanted to run for the nearest commercial pattern that works. Looks like I'll just swallow hard and try this sucker out.

[Isabella]

Ah, and now that you said that you are in LA, Alter Years is local to you. They have a store for all your annoying sewing project needs. ;)

Do ya have a link for your pattern you have? I'd love to see!

Pinay

[Flansy]

I thought this was really great when I picked it up in the store, because it was based on existing garments and there are so many options with it (front closure, back closure, tabs, no tabs, easy to lengenthen etc). However, all these options come with much confusion....heres the link

http://www.5rivers.org/index.html?target=p_342.html&lang=en-gb

My fave part of the pattern is that they acutally encourage you to get tracing paper and trace the pattern, because you might want to use this pattern to make several in different sizes. I'm sure Simplicity wants you to buy a different pattern everytime you want a new garment. With that flimsy tissue like paper and all.....

[Isabella]

You might want to consider picking up some "dressmakers" paper or pattern paper. If you can't find it, try using a thick craft paper you buy for kids school craft projects. Poster board that's it!

Cut out your pattern, then press it with an iron on the lower cotton setting for tissue till it's unwrinkled.

Then tape the pattern in place, on the board then trace. If you leave yourself enough room around th edge it gives you room to resize the pattern. It also gives you a stronger pattern you can keep.

To keep your patterns flat, get a sandwiched peice of sytrophome poster board, and cut so that the back half is still in tacked, but can be folded in half on itself, like a book.

Then put three holes down the sides, and tie with ribbon. You can untie the ribbon to open the "book" and out your patterns. You could also make pockets in it I supose if you have very little patterns. Or take extra peices of regular poster board in different colours and mark each one with the pattern number and date made.

I date the patterns I cut out, because my weight fluxes, and it gives me room to go back to an older thinner pattern, if I've lost weight, or a stick with the same pattern for my current size, etc.

Just put the board behind your sewing table, or you could hang it in your project room or on the wall where you do projects by adding two holes to each side, and inserting ribbon for handles.

I am starting to do this idea, because of how often I loose pattern peices, and figured the more "solid" the paper, the better the pattern would last, plus, I can trace on another peice of paper, dressmakers or otherwise, to create a new pattern for someone else, or for myself.

Works like a charm :)

And THANK You for the link :) I'm lookin' now!
Pinay

[Molly]

you all soooo impress me! even thinking of making my own bodice makes me break out in a cold sweat... of course, this comes from the girl who is still petrified of her sewing machine (but i AM getting closer, i actually cut out all the material for 4 different gored skirts last night - i LOVE working 3rd shift and having nothing to do most weekends... gives me time for the more important things)... :shhh:

Molly

[Isabella]

Ah! Spoted your post here. :)

Good for you! I still break out in a cold sweat over bodices. I'm trying slowly. I just get frustrated. Very frustrated. But I'll get over it. Maybe we could have a sewing party?

My complexe offers a room for rent on with tables, and a large amount of floor space. We all just have to pitch in, and it would depend on how many of us there were. If it were three, I could handle that at my place. Then maybe we all could test out the duct tape bodice pattern.

Pinay

[Molly]

group sewing would rock... finding time to do it, not so much. things are insane for me right now - i'm working full time PLUS tons of overtime and going to school full time (has anyone taken summer classes? someone should have shot me when i signed up for these darlings - abnormal psychology at the speed of light is not so fun)... and silver leaf starts in a few weekends. :augh:

but hey, anything is possible... and someone helping me to use my machine... you'd be my yoda forever!

Molly

[Isabella]

Molly, what kind of machine do you have? I've got three machines, and their all different, maybe I can give some advice/help via email/PM.

Pinay

[ambar]

Whenever I get ready to work on a bodice, I start a little different than most. I go buy the cheapest t-shirt I can find and a couple of rolls of duct tape and a magic marker. Work with someone to wrap the tape around yourself until you have the shape you want. Use the marker to draw in the seams and/or lacing areas then cut yourself out of the taped t-shirt and you have a form-fitted custom-sized pattern with seam lines. Just add seam allowances when you make the bodice from the actual fabric and be sure to use a fabric strong enough. Hey, I know, cheating right? :D

[cyd]

Whenever I get ready to work on a bodice, I start a little different than most. I go buy the cheapest t-shirt I can find and a couple of rolls of duct tape and a magic marker. Work with someone to wrap the tape around yourself until you have the shape you want. Use the marker to draw in the seams and/or lacing areas then cut yourself out of the taped t-shirt and you have a form-fitted custom-sized pattern with seam lines. Just add seam allowances when you make the bodice from the actual fabric and be sure to use a fabric strong enough. Hey, I know, cheating right? :D

Cheating? Nyaaah. I consider it one of the best ways to get a form-fitting bodice known to man.

Or woman. :)

Cyd